Wednesday, August 26, 2009

More orky work

Well, it's been a while but I've finally got a chance to work on the looted wagon/trukk some more tonight so the next thing is to update the ol' blog with some new info. Firstly, I found a set of wheels that I really liked and thought fit the theme of the orks, and, well, they were shiny, can't go wrong. Thanks to a hotwheels monster making the crucial sacrifice, I was able to fit this baby out with the latest in chrome wheels and high tech rubber.
The next part I wanted to get at least started was the re-inforced ram, which is an essential on trukks since it adds +2 to the front armor during a ram, which I do every once in a while just to keep the tau players a little skitish around and empty trukk. It's not as bulky as I would like it so I'll be adding some additional reinforcement and maybe some spikes across the top and sides to make it more menacing.
Since any ork worth his salt these days is a deff skull, I thought I would put the appropriate glyph on the front of the cab so that there isn't any confusion as to which clan would actually loot a vehicle. But why go small when you could actually have an ork looking out the eye of the skull while barrelling across the battle field to deliver his payload of boyz and pain? Thus a giant skull is required to show all dem otha boyz whoz da ardest and da killiest.
So here is what I've go the vehicle looking like so far, I've got a ton of rivets to add, some smaller armor plates, along with fenders, doors, guns, glyphs, and gubbins. I count myself as being around half way done, and it's shaping up nicely which puts a smile on the face of every nob in the mob.




Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Wartrukk part deux...

So, the last you saw of this project it was stalled out while I waited for the engine to arrive from ebay. I built the roll cage during that time, but really didn't feel it was worthy of it's own blog, so I'll just mention that yes, it's new. I decided to go with the ork trukk engine because I like the look of it and it will help bring the model into tournament legal, or at least that's my hope.
Note the custom exhaust built in. I really like the look of dual exhaust pipes and think that GW missed the mark by doing the exhaust the way they did. Then again, as a mechanic and high performance engine enthusiast, my criticism of GW's engines could go on much further, but would probably bore you. Suffice to say, I'm glad that GW is sticking with making models, not cars.

I started work on the cab of my vehicle. I was advised by a friend to make something that would look more like a cab-over trukk, something you my see on a cargo trukk or delievery van around town. Not being opposed to the idea I decided to try it out. I think it has potential, but it's hard to tell until I can add some rivets and bits to make it look a little more like a cab and less like a box. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.





Monday, August 10, 2009

Attack of the Moors!

I've been working on my IG army lately since I'm still waiting on some bits I ordered for the ork trukk that I've been scratch building. My goal was to create a system that would be quick to paint a large number of models and still have them look nice in the end. I've never used the "dip" method, so I figured I would try that. I also have a limited amount of time to paint so I wanted a paintjob that could be done without too many colors or complicated processes such as blending, subtle highlights, or lining.
The army I'm painting is similiar to Tallarn's only based off the Moor's of North Africa, hence the dark skin. So I wanted a paint scheme that would look at home in the desert and ruins of desert style dwellings.
So, starting with the primed model I'll take you through the process.
Above: I used a Krylon brown primer to prime and basecoat my models.
This is immediately after the dip. I used a combination of black ink, a GW wash, and water.

This is what the model looked like after the dip had a chance to dry, which took a few hours, but I waited about a day before I was able to paint anyway.


The dip brings out some nice detail even on this simple 2-peice guardsman model.



Here is the first dry-brush on the cloth areas, I used Vermin Brown.

Here is the next drybrush using Snakebite Leather.

The hands and face were painted with Scorched Brown, the imperial insignia is painted with Chainmail, and the lasgun parts were painted with Chaos Black.

A quick black ink on the insignia parts, some flesh wash on the skin areas, and a little Bleached Bone on the teeth and the model is essentially finished. Easy as that.

To embarass myself I decided to show off my freehand work on the shoulder squad designation.
And once the base is finished this soldier is ready to join his squad, after a quick spray of Testor's Dullcoat.










Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Custom Wartrukk

This is the new ork wartrukk that I've been working on the last week or so. Inspiration hit me when a package I had sent from a friend arrived through the mail arrived very smashed, and so seeing the wreckage so to speak, I also saw some opportunity. Though, so far all I've used is a few tank tread parts. I'm hoping to incorporate a few chimera parts, but honestly think I may just do more with plasticard.


Above is the main deck and treads




The fenders for the tread. Lots of rivets.

The rear half assembled.

Here's what I've come up with for the front, not sure I'm happy with it yet.

Total progress so far.


I'm open to any suggestions as to what to do for the front for a driver and gunner. I've been thinking about using some of the chimera parts but it seems to be a bit overdone in my opinion. And I'm not wanting to use trukk or battle wagon parts but may do that later if it looks better than what ever I can come up with.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Starting a business

I've been making some resin bases for Warhammer 40K lately and have decided to try and sell them. I haven't had much luck on ebay, but think I may try and just set up a website instead, Longbeard Bases. I'll be posting the link on here later, once the website is set up. Until then, here are some pictures of my logo, and the bases I've made.






























Monday, May 11, 2009

Da' Grots

Well, it's been almost a month since my previous post, and in the time in between I've been busy with my new responsibility as a father. So you might say I've got a little grot of my own running around now which has rather diminished my gaming and modeling time. But hopefully over the next few months that will change.

So, on to the grots.

With the current edition (5th) of Warhammer 40,000, grots have once again topped my list of units worth taking, and I'll list a few of the useful reasons here for investing in a unit or two of grots.

Strictly speaking, if you are taking an ork army that is mainly mounted grots won't really play much of a role other than to stand on some objectives or harass the enemy. Be cautious using them if you are running a mechanized listed because they are easy to kill and do count for kill points.

In a foot-slogger army they are essential because they allow for a cover save if the enemy has to shoot through them to a unit behind. This grants a 4+ save to the unit behind, and unlike the previous edition of the ork codex, you don't lose any grots as casualties. So, since your opponent may not like that, they could possibly try and eliminate the grot unit, which, lets be honest, who cares if they are killing your 3 point models? Conversely, try not to run grots in front of lootas or shoota boyz as your opponent will then get the 4+ cover save, so they are best run in front of close combat units like nobs or slugga boyz.

Another benefit is that since the grots count as a troop choice, that means they can hold onto objectives. Grots are great at making a last minute run to an objective, or camping an objective that is in cover, so keep this in mind when placing your objectives. The down side to this can be that during a game where kill points is the goal, grots die or flee easily and still count toward kill points.

The downside to running grots is that for every 10 you need a runtherd. Not too much of a negative compared to the benefits offered, and this can be avoided by running them in packs of 15 or so. Be sure to keep in mind the squighound which allows you to re-roll a failed leadership or moral test. Also, don't underestimate the ability of grots to succeed in close combat. Even if they all die, but take down a few models in return, likely they will still make up more than their points in causualties.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Plastic Nobs

I've found that likely the most versatile and deadly unit in the current edition of the ork army is the unit of Nobs. I generally don't play a game without at least one unit of them on the field, because they are very functional, can be built for very low points if necessary, and indeed can weather a lot of abuse. So, for today's post I'm going to discuss how I use the Nob unit in my army as well as post a few pictures of some newly assembled nobs and why I built them the way I did.
The Nobs can be run as an elite choice in the ork army, or a troop choice if you are running a warboss as a HQ. The unit can take anywhere from 3 to 10 nobs, and can choose all kinds of weaponry that is fitting of a high powered unit. As you can see I've built my box of 5 Nobs to have 3 Power Klaws and 2 with big choppas. The 3 with powerclaws were also choosen to have bosspoles so they could fill in as Nobs that lead other units of orks and use the bosspole to get them back in line. The best part about equiping a unit of Nobs is that you can run them off the shelf so to speak for low cost and minimal gear and they are still a great unit. I tend toward dropping some additional gear on them to help them survive and make them a better all around unit. One thing that anyone running nobs should consider is placing a painboss(not pictured) within the unit to give them the benefit of feel-no-pain special rule which makes an increadible difference when launching an assualt against any army.


An ideal unit that I choose to run usually has 7 to 10 nob, a painboss, and all the orks wearing the 'eavy armor. Then I usually take two powerclaws, and fill out the rest (aside from the painboss) with big choppas. I drop these in a truck that has a red paint job and ram on the front and the goal is to get them effectively to the enemy within the first 2 turns. If I have points to spare and need them to hold up to additional abuse, I'll equip them with cybork bodies which lends a 5+ invulnerable save to the unit, but costs quite a bit so I don't run that very fequently. To top off a larger unit, generally 10 nobs or more, I'll throw in a Waaagh banner for the benefit of higher weaponskill especially again enemies that will have higher weapon skill than 4 such as daemons, tyrinnids, and chaos.

And as I modeled the Nobs, the important part of any good looking model is to place the head as though it looks natural in whichever direction you choose to have it look. This model will likely be one that I do a quick painting tutorial on as I work on painting some of my new ork models. Until then, happy hunting.



Thursday, April 9, 2009

Great Ambitions with humble origins

This is the start of my blog that will focus on how I go about creating, playing, and enjoying the miniature war game hobby. Updates will be rather random and sporadic to start, and I'm using this as a primary means of motivating myself into the hobby more than I've been in the recent past. I've invested a lot of money into the miniature gaming hobby, and I am currently at a cross-roads of giving it up completely or trying to re-kindle my interest for a while at least, and I'm hoping this, along with the help of some friends will help. So stay tuned and hopefully I'll have something to show over the next few months!